I happen to agree with Julia Child that frying in animal fat is far superior to frying in vegetable oil. I'd also argue that it's better for you (but that's a long argument). Here is a brief clip where she discusses McDonald's change from tallow to vegetable oil for their french fries.
If anyone can find me a place in Chicago that fries their taters in animal fat, I'd be much obliged!
Monday, October 22, 2012
Wednesday, October 17, 2012
Bombay Wraps: Sweet Softies
In the interest of inclusiveness, I am not limiting the scope of this blog to "true" potatoes. I stopped by Bombay Wraps today to try some of their sweet potato fries.
The Swell: The sweet potato fries at Bombay Wraps are fried to order and appear to be cut fairly fresh. They're not too expensive for a non-standard variety of fry. I didn't get any burnt fries, not by a long shot. I don't know if they were battered or if it was the "seasoning", but they had a nice bumpy texture which gave them some character.
The Sneaky: My order of fries came with a little unmarked container of red sauce. I initially assumed this was ketchup and, disappointed, set it aside at first. Then, curious why it came in a container rather than a packet, decided to try it. It was in fact not ketchup but rather a delicious sweet and spicy chili sauce that paired excellently with the fries. I only wish that they had labelled the container or mentioned it on the menu, I almost tossed it out!
The Sad: These fries were so soft! There was a slight crispness to some of them, but for the most part they were pretty floppy. Now, as someone who's made them in their own kitchen, I know sweet potato fries are hard to get crispy. But I feel like an operation like this could have accomplished it if they really tried. True, there are those who like their fries soft. But if I'm not going to have crunch I at least want flavor. The sauce was lovely, true, but very scantily portioned. And the fries, advertised as "seasoned with Indian spices" tasted like they were covered with little more than a bit of salt. I do love the taste of sweet potatoes--don't get me wrong--but I expected a little something more.
Bombay Wraps makes fries that pair well with their flavorful Indian sandwiches. However, they don't quite make the grade as exceptional fries on their own.
Rank: SIDE DISH
The Swell: The sweet potato fries at Bombay Wraps are fried to order and appear to be cut fairly fresh. They're not too expensive for a non-standard variety of fry. I didn't get any burnt fries, not by a long shot. I don't know if they were battered or if it was the "seasoning", but they had a nice bumpy texture which gave them some character.
The Sneaky: My order of fries came with a little unmarked container of red sauce. I initially assumed this was ketchup and, disappointed, set it aside at first. Then, curious why it came in a container rather than a packet, decided to try it. It was in fact not ketchup but rather a delicious sweet and spicy chili sauce that paired excellently with the fries. I only wish that they had labelled the container or mentioned it on the menu, I almost tossed it out!
The Sad: These fries were so soft! There was a slight crispness to some of them, but for the most part they were pretty floppy. Now, as someone who's made them in their own kitchen, I know sweet potato fries are hard to get crispy. But I feel like an operation like this could have accomplished it if they really tried. True, there are those who like their fries soft. But if I'm not going to have crunch I at least want flavor. The sauce was lovely, true, but very scantily portioned. And the fries, advertised as "seasoned with Indian spices" tasted like they were covered with little more than a bit of salt. I do love the taste of sweet potatoes--don't get me wrong--but I expected a little something more.
Bombay Wraps makes fries that pair well with their flavorful Indian sandwiches. However, they don't quite make the grade as exceptional fries on their own.
Rank: SIDE DISH
Friday, October 12, 2012
BenjYehuda: "It says, 'Crunchy.'"
BenjYehuda is part of the reason I decided to start this blog. They are a Chipotle-style Mediterranean joint in the Loop with a name that I often have to Google to spell or even recall at all. It is not somewhere you'd expect to find fries, let alone exceptional fries, but there they are.
The Good: First, value. You get a one pound bag of fries for only $1.79, which is hard to beat at even more lackluster dives. Second is quality. These are clearly freshly made and fried to order. The cook will regularly call down the line to see who wants fries so he can get them ready.
The Interesting: These are the crispiest french fries I've ever had. They're downright crunchy. They never get to the point of coming out burnt, however, even during the lunch rush. If you like a soft, potatoey center these might not be your style, but I think it really makes them stand out among more mundane pommes frites. They also, for a buck more, come with a side of Mertz cheddar spread. Points for the unique spin on the traditional "cheese fry", but, while I love a good swipe of Mertz on a burger, the texture is a bit too gritty and processed for fries in my opinion.
The Unfortunate: BenjYehuda is first a Mediterranean shop, so they don't spend much effort in giving the fries any interesting toppings or dips (ketchup typically is included whether or not you ask for it). I suppose you could ask for a side of tahini or hummus, but I can't imagine they would pair well. Their hot sauce might be worth a try.
BenjYehuda is a very popular spot, so be prepared for crowds during lunch, although they move things along pretty quickly. If you're only getting fries (or other non-sandwich items), you can skip the line and head right to the register at the left.
Rank: THE CAPTAIN OF CRUNCH
The Good: First, value. You get a one pound bag of fries for only $1.79, which is hard to beat at even more lackluster dives. Second is quality. These are clearly freshly made and fried to order. The cook will regularly call down the line to see who wants fries so he can get them ready.
The Interesting: These are the crispiest french fries I've ever had. They're downright crunchy. They never get to the point of coming out burnt, however, even during the lunch rush. If you like a soft, potatoey center these might not be your style, but I think it really makes them stand out among more mundane pommes frites. They also, for a buck more, come with a side of Mertz cheddar spread. Points for the unique spin on the traditional "cheese fry", but, while I love a good swipe of Mertz on a burger, the texture is a bit too gritty and processed for fries in my opinion.
The Unfortunate: BenjYehuda is first a Mediterranean shop, so they don't spend much effort in giving the fries any interesting toppings or dips (ketchup typically is included whether or not you ask for it). I suppose you could ask for a side of tahini or hummus, but I can't imagine they would pair well. Their hot sauce might be worth a try.
BenjYehuda is a very popular spot, so be prepared for crowds during lunch, although they move things along pretty quickly. If you're only getting fries (or other non-sandwich items), you can skip the line and head right to the register at the left.
Rank: THE CAPTAIN OF CRUNCH
Would you like fries with that?
I live in Chicago, and I like french fries. My goal is to find the best fries in Chicago.
Ground rules:
1. Ketchup shall not be a default condiment.
2. Frozen fries are to be avoided if possible.
3. Presentation, service, and atmosphere are all very nice, but tastiness comes first.
Onward!
Ground rules:
1. Ketchup shall not be a default condiment.
2. Frozen fries are to be avoided if possible.
3. Presentation, service, and atmosphere are all very nice, but tastiness comes first.
Onward!
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